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Newman replication
Got interested in this one after watching the following videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDPPWyVswMQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4t4mUIBkhFc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJd9ichbiFU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDELb8JcI0Q
There is a thread over at the Overunity forums about it and time to have a go!
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,2492.0.html
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,2510.0.html
Well first thing was too get some new bits:
My First axle below, using a 50mm Ring Magnet and metal clamps attaching it to two aluminium poles.
Was not really happy with this design above, so a NEW design
needed!
First picture below is a re-hash of the 50mm * 10mm Magnet
I am going to use.
I did not like the brass holding setup that I did last weekend, so now have
milled out
two halves of 8mm polycarbonate to set it in. I will tap out the end and put a
thread on the axle.
The width came out at 70mm side to side.
Next I found some Cardboard tubing which was 82mm external
and 75mm internal.
Excellent this will give me a nice close gap for the magnet to coil.
I then milled out two 140mm end caps, this will do two things.
1.) Hold the carboard tube in place while winding and also form a lip.
2.) Leaving base plate on after the winding that will give a nice stand.
I then glued the two end caps to the tube and also milled
out some couplers, so I could attach it to the winding machines axle.
I wanted to be able to remove the couplers from the end caps after the coil
winding was done, so instead of glueing the couplers I tapped out some holes and
used come bolts.
The only thing missing now is how to get the Axle through
the cardboard, so lathed and threaded some 20mm Perspex bar. I then drill a 8mm
hole through to take the 6mm axle.
I will mill out two bearing holders for the end of these rods after it is wound.
I drill some holes in the cardboard tube and the bars screwed in nicely and
became rigid as they tightened up.
In the background the middle magnet has been pressed into it's new housing a
couple of clamps will hold it tight as the glue dries.
Below you can see the Axle Tubes mounted into the
cardboard.
Final picture below is with the TO-BE coil mounted in my
home made winding machine.
I have used the parts that I build my milling machines out of.
So top Axis stepper simply turns the axle with TO-BE coil attached and bottom
Axis Stepper will move side to side with precision accuracy.
Just have to now make a reel mount for the source wire and a tensioner to feed
the wire.
The movie box above only appears if using IE as a browser. So if you cannot see
it then download direct using the link below:
After I had finished winding it, I tape it up and snapped off the top lid to
end up with the finished Pot Motor below. The Magnet holder glue has now all dried and off to lathe down some bars and
put a thread on them. NOTE: NOT GOOD TO WIND A COIL WITH THE
GAP AS IT GIVES A STICKY SPOT Have a look at the video attached and you will see that when Ring magnet is
vertical and I touch the Comm, then yep sure enough it kicks away, but because
of the gap in the middle of the coil I get a nice sticky spot.
The movie box above only appears if using IE as a browser. So if you cannot see
it then download direct using the link below:
First a new center Pot! The coil now has no gap after a bit of messing around with coil winding
machine and it kicks around the full rotation now. Going to mess around with the timing a bit to see if I can get some more
RPM's out of it. I measured it with a laser Tacho earlier and it was doing 200
RPM.
The movie box above only appears if using IE as a browser.
Think you will find that if you increase your windings the kick on the motor
will not be as powerfull but it will pull less current. In the end I Stripped the 1st coil back to 39 ohms and spread the wire across the middle.
The movie box above only appears if using IE as a browser.
Next I lathed down a 6mm brass Rod to be the Axle and now used two 45mm *4mm
thick Neo magnets. Well the new Middle Axle has made a BIG difference.
The movie box above only appears if using IE as a browser.
Well it has now been running for 15 hours with the Amp Meter in place and the
voltage has drop to 12.76-12.77 over that time.
The movie box above only appears if using IE as a browser.
Have disconnected Amp Meter now and will leave it run for a while.
Okay got the Coil Winding machine going today and well
pleased with it. I took it at a low speed to start with but will speed it up
when doing other coils, but for now did not want to push it.
CLaNZeRSCoilWindingMachine.wmv (3.5Meg)
I used two stepper motors that require 200 pulses per revolution.
The Stepper controller unit I am uses is set to 1/8th mode so 1600 pulses will
turn each stepper 1 full revolution.
The TO-BE coil is attached to a direct shaft and so that was easy enough, just
send 1600 pulses to the stepper and I got my full turn.
The other Axis simply moved along 0.25mm after each revolution as the wire was
0.25mm thick.
The Axis is on a trapezium thread which gives 3MM travel per revolution (Tr
12x3) so 1600 pulses will make it travel 3MM, so I simply divided that down and
that gave me 133 pulses to make it travel 0.25 after each revolution.
After 85 revolutions it hit the Rod stuck in the To-BE Coil and so I simply told
the code that after it had done 85 revolutions to move the Axle 17mm across and
hence avoiding the 16mm Rod.
It then did another 85 winds and reversed it self, again doing the 17MM skip on
th way back.
Below is a picture of the coil nearly finished on the Winding Rig.
I ended up winding 1955 turns and got 188 ohms. I was gonna leave it running
longer to get over 200 ohms but the wire got snagged when I was not paying
attention and broke.
But will try it at 188 ohms for now.
It is 34swg 0.25MM wire I have used.
Then all that is left is to Mill out some bearing holders to go on the end of
the Axle poles and put her together.
Main thing I have learnt off this is that I did not need the huge 140mm end Caps
as took less wire than I thought.
But good for Mark 1 of the Pot Motor
Download Movie here
CLaNZeRSNewmanReplicawithStickyspot.wmv
Off to wind a new one at a angle maybe.
I am running it with a 12 Volt Battery and it is pulling around 10ma as can be
seen on the video.
The coil is now 2000 winds of 0.25 wire around a 80mm tube and is exactly 200
ohms.
With this much resistance in the coil it seems hard to get a spark as no current
is hardly being pulled, but it has been running for over 1 hour now and there is
a very small spark and the battery has now dropped at all.
So if you cannot see
it then download direct using the link below:
CLaNZeRSNewmanCoil2.wmv
I am going to strip down the 1st coil and cut it back to 50 ohms and prove
whether I am right on this.
Just as I thought over 1000RPM and hell of a kick, nice spark with the lights
out but pulls 50ma at 12volts.
So if you cannot see
it then download direct using the link below:
CLaNZeRSNewmanReplica39ohmcoil.wmv
Have milled out a custom holder that now allows the rod to go all the way
through.
The balance is brilliant and with a little twist of the Axle she spins up very
loose inside the 200 ohm coil.
The
Ampmeter goes in 10ma increments and it is not even moving as
shown in the Video attached.
The Volt meter started off showing 12.76 volts and after 10 minutes of running I
decided to Video it as it was hovering between 12.78-12.79 Volts.
Just checked as I was posting and it is still hovering between this range.
Now gonna try work out how to use the amp meter on the Analogue Meter LOL
So if you cannot see
it then download direct using the link below:
CLaNZeRSNewmanReplicawithnewAxle.wmv
I have now stopped it and removed the Amp Meter and shortened the wires, so we
will see.
I placed my other Amp Meter on it that goes from 0-1ma but the needle was
hitting the end scale hard LOL, so like you say maybe around the 5 ma mark
I will try the 39ohm coil later and see how she goes also with the new Axle.
One thing to Note is by using BRASS as the new Axle I have got hardly any carbon
build up at all, it just seems to self clean and drop away, But the sparks are
very small.
There is better torque on the Axle than before but still easy to stop it with
not alot of pressure.
Have now rigged up the 39ohm Coil wth the new Axle and it spins at around 1700
RPM and gives a nice spark.
While altering the tape I was pulling 100MA and the battery dropped to 12.69
Volts. After fine tuning it I got the current pull down to 30MA as shown on
attached video. The voltage has now creeped upto 12.72 volts as shown on Video.
So if you cannot see
it then download direct using the link below:
CLaNZeRS39ohmCoilwithnewAxle.wmv
Thought this might be of interest.
I put both coils on the same shaft and joined them in Parallel.
12.67 volts constant for over 2 hours so far no increase, no drop.
39ohm coil on the left 200ohm coil on the right.
The movie box above only appears if using IE as a browser.
So if you cannot see
it then download direct using the link below:
CLaNZeRSNewmanReplicaDoubleCoil.wmv
Will play more later!
PLEASE NOTE.
Sorry I am not posting the results of my experiments as
this would take too much time.
But when I have something I can shout about and that works 100%, then be assured
I will post an update.
For now this is just a Blog as such of what I am working on.